Mating surfaces and gaskets
When disassembling mating parts, never insert screwdrivers or similar tools between them. This may cause serious damage which, after reassembly, will cause leakage of oil, coolant, etc.,
Separation is usually done by tapping along the mating surfaces with a soft mallet to move or break the gasket. However, this method is not suitable for disassembly of pin connections.
If there must be a gasket between the mating surfaces of two parts, then always install a new one when assembling; install a dry gasket unless otherwise specified in the assembly manual.
Before installation, make sure that the mating surfaces are clean and dry and that there are no residues from the old gasket on them. When cleaning mating surfaces, use a tool that will not damage the surface and remove any burrs or nicks with an oil-filled abrasive stick or fine file.
Make sure that all threaded holes are clean and do not allow liquid sealant to enter them, unless otherwise specified in the assembly manual.
Make sure all openings, channels or pipes are clean, blow them out with compressed air.
Sealing cuffs
The cuff can be removed by prying it out with a flat head screwdriver or similar tool. Alternatively, you can screw a few self-tapping screws into the cuff and pull out the cuff using pliers.
The removed cuff in any case and regardless of the reason for the removal, should be replaced with a new one during installation.
The thin edge of a new cuff can be easily damaged and will not function unless scratches, nicks, or nicks are completely removed from the surface it is in contact with. If the surface of the part cannot be restored, and the manufacturer has not provided for the possibility of some displacement of the seal relative to the surface, then the part must be replaced.
Prevent the seal lips from coming into contact with any parts that could damage them during installation. If possible, use tape or a conical mandrel. Lubricate the cuff with oil before installation. When installing a double lip seal, fill the space between the lip seals with grease.
Unless otherwise specified, the seals must be lubricated with the oil they prevent from leaking during installation.
Use an appropriately sized ring mandrel or block of wood to press the collar into the housing. The cuff must be installed flush with the body surface (unless otherwise specified).
Threaded connections
Seizure when loosening nuts, bolts and screws - usually due to corrosion. If a threaded connection does not loosen, moisten the connection with thin oil, kerosene or similar liquid for holding for some time. To loosen tight connections, tap on the lever connected to a screwdriver or wrench head. If none of these methods help, you can try warming up the connection gently. The last resort is the use of a hacksaw or chisel.
Studs are usually removed in the following way. Screw two nuts onto the stud and tighten them well together. Then, turning the lower nut with a wrench, unscrew the stud. Studs or bolts that have broken below the surface of the part they were screwed into can sometimes be removed with a stud extractor. Before driving a stud or bolt into a blind hole, first make sure the hole is completely free of fluid (oil, fat, water, etc.). If this is not done, the housing may be destroyed due to the increased hydraulic pressure that the bolt or stud creates when screwing in.
When tightening the castle nut, tighten the nut to the specified torque, then tighten it to the next cotter pin hole. Never loosen the nut to align the cotter pin holes unless specifically directed to do so in the assembly instructions.
If you need to check the correct tightening of a bolt or nut, unscrew it (her) a quarter turn, then tighten again to the required torque using a torque wrench. However, this cannot be done if, after tightening with a torque wrench, the connection has been tightened to the required angle.
For some threaded connections, especially for bolts or nuts of the cylinder head, as the last stage of tightening, it is not the torque that is regulated, but the angle by which the fastener must be tightened. Usually, a rather low torque is specified to tighten the bolts in a certain sequence, and then it is completed in one or more steps to the specified angles.
Washers, locknuts, locking elements
Any fastener that requires rotation relative to a workpiece or body must always have a washer installed between it and the corresponding workpiece.
Spring washers or split washers in critical connections, such as the bottom end of the connecting rod, should always be replaced. Folding washers should also always be replaced if they have been bent at least once to free the nut or bolt.
Self-locking nuts in not too critical connections can be used repeatedly, provided that resistance is felt at the moment of tightening, when the locking part of the nut comes into the thread of the stud or bolt. However, with prolonged use, self-locking nuts gradually lose their effectiveness and must also be replaced periodically.
Cotter pins should always be replaced with new ones that match the size of the hole.
If an anaerobic sealant or other anti-twist compound has been applied to the threads, it must be washed off with a solvent and a wire brush, and a fresh compound should be applied during assembly.
Special tools and fixtures
Some of the repair procedures described in this manual require the use of special tools such as a press, two or three jaw pullers, spring compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable substitutes for special tools are indicated. In some cases, where other options are not possible, for reasons of safety and to ensure the quality of the repair, it is necessary to use a proprietary tool. If you are not highly qualified or if you do not understand everything in the description of the procedures, never try to do without using a special tool (fixtures), when the described procedure calls for its use. In this case, you risk not only getting injured, but also ruining expensive parts.
Protection of the environment
When changing oils, brake fluid, antifreeze, etc., measures must be taken against environmental pollution. Never, ever drink any of the above liquids down the public drain or onto the ground where they can be absorbed. There are many collection points for used oils and other liquids. On the territory of each garage or guarded parking lot there should be a special collector for such liquids.
Due to the ever-increasing tightening of legislation in the field of environmental protection, in particular, the reduction of air pollution from motor vehicles, many cars have protection devices for the most important points of adjustment of the fuel system. These protective devices are primarily designed to prevent unauthorized intervention in the adjustment of air-fuel mixtures, which can cause an increase in the toxicity of exhaust gases. Such protective equipment must be restored after repair, in accordance with the requirements of the manufacturer or current legislation.
Note: Draining oil down the drain is immoral and illegal. Find the location of your local waste oil collection point.
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